Limonaia del Castèl is a garden filled with citrus trees – from lemons, oranges, to mandarins – a hidden oasis of beauty and tranquility, one of the hidden gems of Limone sul Garda, a charming town situated on the shores of Italy’s largest lake. This place captivates with its unique atmosphere and rich history. A walk among the trees is an unforgettable experience, enhanced by the intense aroma that fills the air, creating an extremely relaxing atmosphere. The blue surface of the lake shimmering in the sun and the steep slopes of Monte Baldo in the background create an amazing contrast with the vibrant, fresh greenery of the garden. This is the northernmost lemon cultivation site in Europe. See for yourself!
The Myth of the Birth of Lemon Trees
When the oldest pair of Olympian gods – Hera and Zeus – celebrated their marriage, all the gods attending the great feast brought gifts. Gaia (Mother Earth) made a tree laden with golden apples, symbolizing immortality, fertility, and eternal youth, sprout before the eyes of the newlyweds. Hera admired the magnificent tree, and since it was extremely valuable, she placed it in a garden, which, according to folklore, was located at the western edge of the world, near the primeval waters of the ocean. The Hesperides – nymphs of the Setting Sun – were tasked with guarding and caring for the tree, which was also watched over by a dragon (or a serpent with a hundred heads) called Ladon.
The Hesperides were considered the daughters of the Greek god Hesperus and the evening star, which can still be admired in the night sky today – the planet Venus, the goddess of love. Hesperus heralded dusk and the evening of the upcoming night of love. Therefore, the Hesperides were associated with Aphrodite, and as a gift from their father, they were considered a symbol of love. Hence, the golden fruits were as important to the goddess of love as they were to Hera, the protector of marriage. Unlike the biblical legend of the Tree of Knowledge, the golden apples of the Hesperides were not a source of sin, but a symbol of immortality, fertility, youth, and eternal beauty. They were desired by men but reserved only for the gods and unreachable for mortals.
The Magic of Citrus Trees at Lake Garda
It’s amazing that in a place where the Alps begin, and winters can cover not only high peaks with snow, nature has allowed, with a bit of human ingenuity, the cultivation of citrus trees in gardens climbing terraced slopes towards the sun. There are more such corners around Lake Garda, but I’ll tell you about the most famous one – the lemon garden located in the town of Limone sul Garda. This place is worth visiting not only for its natural beauty; from the upper terraces of the garden, there is a beautiful view of the lake, and the lush trees and regularly watered vegetation provide some respite even on a hot day, and the entrance ticket is merely a symbolic fee.
A visit to Limonaia del Castèl is also a great opportunity to learn more about the history and tradition of citrus cultivation in the Garda region. The garden features information boards that clearly explain the different plant species and their care methods. It’s an educational experience that helps to understand how important citrus trees are to the culture and economy of Limone sul Garda. Much of the information in this article comes from these boards.
Lemons and Lemon greenhouses at Lake Garda
Lemons were brought to Lake Garda from the Ligurian Riviera in the 13th century, thanks to the initiative of monks from the San Francesco monastery in Gargnano; from there, they spread to other towns in the northern part of the lake. In the 16th century, Bongianni Grattarolo noted that the gardens by Garda “in charm do not fall short of the description of the gardens of Atlantis, Alcinous, and the Hesperides, rich throughout the year with all those fruits with golden skin.” In the 18th century, the Bettoni family from Bogliaco gave lemon cultivation the characteristics of a real industry; extensive lemon greenhouses were built, making the Salò Riviera – at almost 46° latitude – the northernmost lemon cultivation area in the world. In September 1786, J.W. Goethe was enchanted by the view of the lemon greenhouses admired from a boat passing by, describing them with these words:
“We passed Limone, whose lemon groves, terraced up the mountain slope, are a picture of wealth and order. Such a grove consists of rows of white quadrangular columns, standing at regular intervals and climbing step by step upward. On these columns lie strong beams, so that in winter the trees growing between them can be covered. The boat moved slowly, which allowed for contemplation and viewing of these delightful details.”
Johann Wolfgang Goethe, September 13, 1786
The Fall of the Lemon Business
These lemons were mainly exported to today’s Germany, Poland, and Russia. The citrus trade grew after 1840 when the “Lake Garda Society” was established in Gargnano, which brought together hundreds of small producers and annually brought 5-6 million fruits to market. A catastrophic fungal infection, which spread through the lake gardens from 1855, was disastrous for the plants. Production declined in the second half of the 19th century, and competition from lemons from Sicily and Calabria, as well as the discovery of synthetic citric acid, accelerated the demise of the business at Lake Garda. The pillars and walls of the abandoned greenhouses – an authentic historical and architectural heritage – remain today, showing modern people the prosperity of their ancestors, which was the result of their hard work.
The Construction of Lemon Greenhouses
Water from the stream, a valley sheltered from the wind, optimal slope exposure, and proximity to the lake were necessary conditions once considered when deciding to build a lemon greenhouse. They were usually built on several terraced plots connected by stone steps. A strong, massive, often stone wall enclosed and protected the greenhouse from three sides, guaranteeing the lemon trees exposure to the east or southeast. In the center or at one end of the building, there was a storage area for materials used to cover the greenhouses with glass during the winter, which was installed in November.
The Roof Structure of Lemon Greenhouses
Between the stone walls, wooden pillars were erected, and then perpendicular beams were laid and secured on them, to support the rafters made of larch wood. The roof was sloped towards the back. Glass panes were mounted not only on top but also on the side, on the sunny side. Typically, between one pillar and the next, five or six beams, two or three panes of glass, and two doors were installed. The central beams were locked with wooden pegs, and the glass panes were laid along the wooden beams, held in place by rotating strips fastened around a nail. The doors were opened during warm days to let in some fresh air. Straw was used to fill cracks and gaps. By St. Catherine’s Day on November 25th, the greenhouse had to be completely closed and ready for the coming winter. Lemon trees, as well as the fruits themselves, are threatened by temperatures dropping around 0°C. If the temperature fell low enough, fires of brushwood and wood were lit along the terraces. With the arrival of warm days, typically in March, the glass covers were dismantled, and the winds, so typical of Garda, once again reached the trees.
Limonaia Pra dela Fam in Tignale and Limonaia del Castèl in Limone
In the northern Garda region, restoration work has recently been completed; the old greenhouses of the Pra dela fam gardens in Tignale and the Castèl greenhouses in Limone have been restored.
Pra dela Fam
Pra dela Fam is a strip of land running along the lake, right next to the road leading to Limone sul Garda. There, the Parisini family built the “Old Garden” in 1754, adding the second “New Garden” in 1850, which had a more southern exposure. The two lemon greenhouses produced lemons until the beginning of the 20th century: 68,936 in 1907, 145,344 in 1920, and 44,307 in 1927. As mentioned before, lemon plantations gradually declined, leading to the abandonment of first the “Old Garden” and finally the “New Garden.” In the 1980s, the process of reviving the greenhouses on the three terraces of the “New Garden” began. The columns were repaired and reinforced, cross beams were replaced, irrigation channels were cleared, and new lemon trees were planted. The lemon greenhouse opened to visitors in 1985, where you can now see almost a hundred citrus trees (lemons, oranges, grapefruits, and kumquats) that regularly bear fruit.
Limonaia del Castèl
The Limonaia del Castèl lemon greenhouse is located in the historic center of Limone sul Garda. The mountainous terrain shields the citrus terraces from the northwest, while it opens up to the sun in the east and southeast. The total area of lemon cultivation at Limonaia del Castèl, divided into several levels, covers 1,633 square meters. The Limonaia, built at the beginning of the 18th century, changed hands several times, belonging to the Amadei, Bertoni, Patuzzi, Girardi, Polidoro, and Segala families before finally being acquired by the Limone municipality in 1995. A total of three restoration projects were carried out: in 1997, 1999, and 2002. Two terraces and two storage rooms were restored, new glass panes were installed, bathrooms for visitors were built, and electricity was introduced. Now, on six of the seven terraces, traditional cultivation methods are used, growing seventy citrus trees (lemons, sweet and sour oranges, chinotto lemons, grapefruits, mandarins, and kumquats). The central storage building has been transformed into a museum and educational center.
Lemon Cultivation in Limonaia del Castèl
Each lemon tree was allocated a plot of about 16 square meters. As early as the 16th century, Agostino Gallo set the guidelines for effective lemon tree cultivation: the soil should be rich and free from stones, manure should be spread early before the leaves start to appear. In addition to regular fertilizing, the lemon tree’s plot should be kept free of grass, dug up with a spade, and watered regularly, and the plant itself should be pruned as needed. The fruits were harvested into leather bags by people standing on traditional three-legged ladders.
The plants bloomed several times a year. The first and most abundant flowering occurred in May, followed by milder blooming in late summer and autumn. Lemons harvested in May had a rougher skin and were more oval-shaped than those picked in June and July. These fruits were more highly valued than the August harvest. After the August harvest, a smaller harvest occurred in September and October. Over the course of a decade, the average production was calculated, showing that a healthy and strong lemon tree yielded around 500-600 lemons during the two main harvests in May and June.
Garda lemons were highly prized for their medicinal properties, acidity, aromatic scent of both the fruit and the thin, shiny skin, and for the belief that they stayed fresh longer than any other lemons.
Visiting Limonaia del Castèl
I recommend visiting the citrus garden in the morning, right after it opens, at 10 am, for several reasons. First, there are no crowds, allowing for a relaxed walk through the narrow paths that offer limited space. But the most important factor is sunlight. Once the sun passes noon and begins to set in the west, the town of Limone sul Garda – especially the part nestled under the rocks – falls into shadow, which deepens with each passing hour, while the opposite side of the lake remains bathed in sunlight until sunset. This, in turn, will affect the quality of the photos you take.
In 2024, the opening hours are as follows:
- From 08.01 to 01.03: closed;
- From 02.03 to 21.03: open on Saturdays and Sundays;
- From 22.03 to 31.05: open daily from 10:00 to 18:00;
- From 01.06 to 30.09: open daily from 10:00 to 22:00;
- From 01.10 to 31.10: open daily from 10:00 to 18:00.
The entrance fee was 2.00 euros per person, and admission is free for children under 10 years old. All proceeds from ticket sales go towards the maintenance of the garden.
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