Between Verona and the town of Peschiera del Garda, a little further south towards the medieval city of Mantua, stretch hectares of gentle hills covered with vineyards and grain fields. It is here, among vineyards, meadows, and golf courses, in the area known as Colline Moreniche del Garda, that Relais Corte Guastalla is hidden, where we spent a wonderful week in May. This is one of many former manor estates that today offers high-standard apartments in a carefully restored 17th-century property, a large garden with a swimming pool, as well as an underground garage and an elevator.
This is a story not only about a unique place to stay but also about a land overshadowed by the fame of Lake Garda and Verona, where only true connoisseurs of unspoiled Italy venture. What is worth seeing in the area and what should you absolutely experience? Where and when can you visit a local market? Where to buy delicious pastries and fresh homemade pasta? Come and discover it for yourself!
All photos featured in this article were taken in the second decade of May 2025.
The moraine hills south of Verona
The moraine hills of southern Garda, known as Colline Moreniche del Garda, are a land where the glacier left behind a legacy of rolling hills, small lakes and ponds, and green terraces. These gentle elevations, stretching between Verona in the north and Mantua in the south, were formed thousands of years ago when massive sheets of ice retreated, giving way to warmth and sunshine. Today, it is one of the most picturesque corners of this part of Italy: olive groves, vineyards, hidden ponds, ancient towns, and fields that are at their most beautiful in May and early June, covered with lush green carpets interwoven with poppies and other wildflowers.
It’s not just a landscape, but also a collection of small natural sanctuaries, such as Lake Frassino or the Castellaro Lagusello nature reserve, where you can hear wild ducks and hundreds of birds that choose these hills as a stopover during their migrations. In spring, wild orchids bloom here, and country roads wind between rural estates and stone walls. It’s a perfect area for hiking, cycling, and even horseback riding, with numerous old trails crisscrossing the region — paths once used by carts carrying wine and olive oil a hundred years ago.
The Colline Moreniche also have their own fascinating history, from the Etruscans and Romans to medieval noble families and the great battles of the Risorgimento period, the era of Italy’s unification. You can read more about it in my book, “Italia. The Land of Contrasts and Diversity. Northern Italy.” The moraine hills of Lake Garda are not widely known, but those who visit quickly discover a side of Italy untouched by mass tourism — authentic, slightly off the beaten path, hidden away from the world, and easy to fall in love with at first sight.
In the following part of the article, I will focus on the immediate surroundings of Relais Corte Guastalla, bordered to the east by the Mincio River, as well as on the main attractions easily accessible from this beautiful corner of rural Italy. However, the area of the moraine hills south of Lake Garda is much larger.
The village of Guastalla Nuova near the town of Sona – a land of golf courses
The village, or rather a small settlement made up of just a few farmsteads, is accessible only by gravel roads lined not only with cypress trees but also with plane trees. There are no shops here, and you have to drive a few kilometers to reach the nearest restaurants. It feels as if you are in the middle of nowhere, far from highways even though the nearest exit to the A4 Turin-Milan-Venice motorway is just a few kilometers away, and far from airports even though Verona Airport is only a thirty-minute drive away.
In return, you get peace, quiet, and nature: birdsong, endless meadows, hectares of vineyards, and golf courses. This area is a true haven for golf lovers, with four golf courses nearby, including one right next door in the very heart of Guastalla Nuova.
Golf clubs near Relais Corte Guastalla:
- Golf Villa Giusti, a 9-hole golf club located just next door.
- A golf club with an 18-hole course stretching over 2 kilometers, open all year round.
- Villafranca Golf Club with a 9-hole course spanning 6 kilometers, open all year round.
- Paradiso di Peschiera Golf Club with an 18-hole course nearly 6 kilometers long.
In this area, you will find wines such as the famous Bianco di Custoza, Valpolicella (although it is no longer within the Valpolicella DOC zone), Amarone, and Bardolino. For those interested, the owners of Relais Corte Guastalla offer the option to arrange culinary and wine tours in cooperation with selected local producers.
Relais Corte Guastalla – born from a love for an old countryside estate
On the moraine hills of southern Garda, in a place where early medieval buildings once stood centuries ago, a manor house was built at the end of the 16th century. Its historical significance is still confirmed today by an old watercolor preserved in the Miniscalchi Erizzo Museum. For centuries, Guastalla Vecchia witnessed the history of the land and its people, noble families and titles, countless legends, as well as the daily life of work in the fields and vineyards.
The Spolverini family, wealthy and influential already during the rule of the Scaligeri, made this place their home for generations. Later, the manor passed into the hands of Teresa Muselli, followed by Marianna Saibante, the wife of Count Francesco Giusti Del Giardino, and eventually, according to the inheritance decree of 1863, it became the property of Count Julio Giusti. Over the years, Guastalla Vecchia served as a working farm, quietly and patiently enduring the passage of time.
In 2002, Orietta and Franco Tommasi discovered this forgotten treasure and decided to bring it back to life. The renovation of the old manor took four years to complete. With the help of architect Alberto Pontiroli, they restored every detail with great respect for the history and architecture of the place.
Today, Relais Corte Guastalla features original 17th-century architectural elements, beautifully combined with contemporary interior design and modern amenities, from air conditioning to an elevator and reliable Wi-Fi. This is how an exclusive estate was created, welcoming all those who dream of peace and tranquility in a countryside setting without compromising on comfort and high standards.
The first moments
A gravel road winds through meadows and vineyards, first passing by a golf club before turning near its grounds, continuing past two farmhouses, and finally coming to a stop in front of a tall, wrought-iron double gate set into an old stone wall. On the left side, there is a post with a keypad where you enter the access code. I received all the necessary information by email a few days before arrival, including the gate code, the number of our designated parking spot (each apartment has its own assigned space), and the code to access the apartment itself, since there are no traditional keys or key cards. The email also included useful recommendations, such as where to find the tastiest cornetti in the area. The owners live in a house on the same property, but they have arranged the check-in process in a way that allows guests to arrive independently without needing to be greeted in person.
The gate opens and we drive in, immediately making a sharp 90-degree turn to the left onto the ramp leading to the underground garage. I had never before encountered an accommodation, other than a large modern hotel, that offers underground parking, especially one like this. The spaces are wide and numbered, with a non-slip surface. To open the gate when exiting the garage, you simply press a button. The timing is perfectly calculated, so it is better not to stop on the steep ramp. After pressing the button, wait about 20 seconds before moving forward, and the gate will finish opening just in time.
From the parking area, an underground tunnel leads to the basement beneath the main guest building, with an additional entrance from the garden. At the end of the tunnel, there is a staircase and an elevator. Since our apartment was located on the ground floor, we only used the elevator on the day of arrival and departure, when we were pulling our suitcases.
Our apartment at Relais Corte Guastalla
Relais Corte Guastalla now offers 12 apartments, some of which come with their own garden patio. We stayed for a week in one of these apartments. The entrance door led us into a spacious living room, with its most striking feature being a large stone fireplace, an original element of the room. Although it is no longer in use and guests cannot light a fire, its presence adds a special charm and atmosphere to the space.
There are many more old, original features from the period. The worn stone floor, marked by centuries of life passing over it, remains just as it was laid in the 17th century, as do the exposed wooden ceiling beams. The table is also old, although not as ancient as the fireplace, while the chairs are modern additions to the interior. It almost feels as if the designer intended them to serve as a link between the historic table and the modern, highly functional kitchen area, which includes a built-in refrigerator and dishwasher. The kitchen is also equipped with an electric kettle and a water carafe for use with the filtered water dispenser.
The bathroom follows the same style. The old stone floor and exposed ceiling beams contrast beautifully with modern amenities, including a wall-mounted heater that guests can control themselves, a spacious shower cabin, and a set of genuinely high-quality toiletries.
The bedroom features a large, comfortable bed and a spacious wooden wardrobe. The rooms are very quiet, with no noise coming in from outside.
The garden at Relais Corte Guastalla
The large garden surrounding the estate is available for guests to enjoy. The perfectly manicured lawn, mowed and watered daily, covers almost the entire area like a green carpet. In a separate section, enclosed by a fence, there is a swimming pool with a relaxation area where you can unwind on a sun lounger under a parasol. The pool is open from May to October.
Breakfast and Other Meals
The owners of Corte Guastalla, who some time ago decided to discontinue serving breakfast in a buffet style, now encourage guests to prepare their own meals using the well-equipped kitchen in their apartment. There is also a coffee machine and a selection of teas available in the ground floor lobby, free of charge for all guests until 11:00 am. However, there is also the option to order breakfast to your room for an additional fee, served at a pre-arranged time.
We received a basket containing a bottle of freshly squeezed orange juice, fresh bread rolls, cornetti, a piece of cheese, Parma ham, homemade jam, butter, two small omelets made with local farm eggs, and two natural yogurts. In separate jars, there were finely chopped strawberries, which are in season in northern Italy at this time of year. Everything was fresh and delicious. We usually prepared warm meals ourselves, using groceries purchased from nearby shops and local markets.
Where to Shop for Delicious Local Products?
The Market in Sommacampagna
The completely non-touristy town of Sommacampagna has a few restaurants, but what truly charmed me was the market, held on Fridays from early morning until around noon. What can you find there? Clothing and underwear, cut flowers and seedlings, fresh vegetables and fruit, but most importantly, cheeses, cured meats, fresh meat, homemade baked goods, and pasta. I chose tortelli di zucca, traditional pumpkin-filled dumplings typical of this area, as well as gnocchi.
For larger grocery runs, I recommend the Martinelli supermarket, which was my personal discovery this year. It is a local supermarket chain operating in the area between Mantua and the town of Affi near the southeastern part of Lake Garda. The nearest Martinelli store to Relais Corte Guastalla is located in the town of Monzambano.
Il Fornaio Fratelli Zenatti Bakery and Pastry Shop
Sommacampagna hides another culinary gem, the Il Fornaio Fratelli Zenatti bakery and pastry shop, one of two places in the area recommended by Orietta in her welcome email. Here you will find a wide selection of bread, high-quality pasta, and sweet pastries. A little tip — this place is very popular with the locals, so if you want to have the full selection available, it is best to come in the morning.
Extra Perks at Relais Corte Guastalla
In addition to free access to the coffee machine, hot water, and a selection of teas available for all guests until 11:00 am, you can also enjoy unlimited access to a dispenser serving delicious, chilled drinking water around the clock. You are welcome to use it not only in your apartment but also to take some with you on your day trips. I found a one-liter water bottle worked perfectly, which I filled up every morning before heading out. Wine lovers will also appreciate the selection of local wines displayed in the lobby, available for purchase directly from the hosts. For an additional fee, laundry service is also available.
Booking Your Stay and Other Guests’ Reviews
he best way to book your stay at Relais Corte Guastalla is through the property’s official website (available in both Italian and English), where you can check the availability of apartments for specific dates using the online calendar. You will also find more information and photos of the different apartments there. You can also read other guests’ reviews on Tripadvisor.
What to See Near Relais Corte Guastalla?
During a week of beautiful weather, vibrant colors of May nature, and wonderful scents in the air, we enjoyed not only the peaceful garden but also explored the surrounding area. There is no shortage of attractions nearby, from famous must-see spots in northern Italy to hidden gems that are little known among foreign tourists. Relais Corte Guastalla is located just 12 kilometers from Lake Garda and 17 kilometers from Verona, making these two destinations the most obvious choices for day trips.
Verona
The famous city of Romeo and Juliet, beautifully situated on the banks of the Adige River, with many charming streets perfect for leisurely walks, romantic alleyways, picturesque bridges, and historic landmarks.
This is a city where history and architecture intertwine like a well-told legend. From the ancient amphitheater, where concerts are still held during the summer, to Renaissance palaces and medieval bridges, every step offers a glimpse into the past. Here, you can stroll in the shadow of the Roman Arena, one of the best-preserved amphitheaters in Europe, and lose yourself in a maze of Gothic alleyways and squares. Around every corner, you will discover distinctive facades from the era of the Scaligeri family and even the most famous balcony in Italy, in the house of Shakespeare’s legendary Juliet. Verona is a true gem of Roman, medieval, and Renaissance architecture. For centuries, it thrived at the crossroads of cultures, trade, and art, and today it captivates every visitor with its timeless charm.
Mantua
Mantua is a true gem of medieval and Renaissance architecture, a city that grew for centuries at the crossroads of history, art, and the power of the mighty Gonzaga family. In its narrow streets and majestic squares, you can still feel the echo of medieval walls and towers, which over time gave way to Renaissance palaces, cloisters, and churches designed by the greatest masters of that era. It was here that Leon Battista Alberti designed the famous Basilica of Saint Andrew, and Giulio Romano created the illusion-filled Palazzo Te.
Today, Mantua, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, captivates visitors with the harmony of its medieval layout and Renaissance grandeur. For centuries, it has continued to enchant those who wish to see how time can create the most beautiful stories. Yet it remains one of the most underrated cities in northern Italy among international travelers.
Borghetto sul Mincio
Borghetto sul Mincio is one of those places that look like a living postcard. This tiny village is set right on the river, and in some parts quite literally in the river, where medieval watermills, stone bridges, and old houses create a fairytale-like scene. It is a perfectly preserved gem, with the ruins of the Scaliger Castle in nearby Valeggio sul Mincio rising above the landscape, along with the equally historic Ponte Visconteo, still in use today, which reminds visitors of the times when Borghetto guarded the borders between principalities.
Narrow alleyways, the gentle sound of flowing water, and the lush greenery all around make this place irresistible to those seeking peace and the magic of bygone times, hidden just steps away from famous cycling routes and romantic paths along the Mincio River.
Pista ciclabile del Mincio (part of the Ciclovaia del Sole)
The cycle path along the Mincio River is one of the most beautiful routes in the Lake Garda area. It stretches for around 45 kilometers, and thanks to its gentle gradient and smooth asphalt surface, it is perfect even for a relaxing family outing. The route begins in Peschiera del Garda, right by the lake, and ends in Mantua, running mostly along the riverbank. Interestingly, this section is also part of the long-distance EV7 route, the Ciclovia del Sole, which connects northern Italy with the central part of the country.
The Mincio Cycle Path is a route much loved by both locals and tourists, who use it frequently. It winds picturesquely through fields, green meadows, and small bridges, and cycling it at a leisurely pace takes around four hours. Along the way, you can visit the charming Borghetto sul Mincio mentioned earlier (although you cannot ride your bike into the village itself and will need to park it at the entrance), as well as Parco Giardino Sigurtà, where bicycles are very welcome.
Parco Giardino Sigurtà
Parco Giardino Sigurtà is a true green gem on the botanical map of Veneto. It is a vast park where the history of traditional Italian gardens meets modern grandeur and meticulous attention to detail.
This vast private estate in Valeggio sul Mincio enchants visitors with kilometers of pathways, romantic ponds, thousands of tulips blooming in spring (they were still in bloom in mid-May 2025), and a hedge maze where you can feel transported to another era. The silence, the scent of flowers, and the views of the moraine hills of southern Lake Garda come together to tell a beautiful story of how nature and humanity can create small wonders. More information is available on the official website of the garden.
Lake Garda
A natural destination is, of course, Italy’s largest lake, but from your base at Relais Corte Guastalla, I recommend focusing on its southern part. The closest towns are Peschiera del Garda and the famous Sirmione, both reachable within half an hour. We are true Garda enthusiasts ourselves and visited even though we had already spent the entire week before our stay at Relais Corte Guastalla… at Lake Garda! You can never have too much Garda, so here’s a link to our Lake Garda guide on the blog.
Other destinations
Less than 10 kilometers separate Relais Corte Guastalla from the A4 motorway junction, which provides convenient connections to beautiful cities such as Venice, Padua, and Vicenza to the east. To the west, you can easily reach Milan (for this trip, I would recommend considering a quick transfer to Verona’s main train station, Verona Porta Nuova, and taking a fast train) as well as the stunning city of Bergamo.
Relais Corte Guastalla featured in a video
This post was created in collaboration with Relais Corte Guastalla.